Dark Side of the Cha Cha Moon

Alan Yau's Chinese noodle bar venture Cha Cha Moon opened back in 2008 just off London's Carnaby Street. The first time I went there, it didn't go well -- it was packed, the staff rushed and the menu both complex and unhelpful. When I ended up back there last Friday after a few drinks at The Clachan pub on Kingly Street, I thought I'd give Cha Cha Moon another chance.

Cha Cha Moon is Alan Yau's second attempt at Wagamama's, to my mind. I have a lot of time for the Hong Kong-born restaurateur behind some of the best recognised restaurants in London, including the high-end Hakkasan, dim sum palace Yauatcha, Thai chain Busaba Eathai and previously, Wagamama's. Not least because, having grown-up in Hong Kong myself, I love Asian cuisine.

The ambition is apparent -- its modern, sleek design is sophisticated and aspirational, and the Time Out award in 2008 as Runner-Up for Best Design is well-deserved. But on our visit last Friday, the front entrance on Ganton Street was boarded up for refurbishment. The back entrance in Kingly Court had a bouncer granting access. This didn't bode well. If bouncers are the new maitre d', then we really are in trouble. Inside, things didn't get much better. Staff were surly, the menu was ill-defined -- superficially Chinese there are still forays to Singapore and Malaysia, but it's testament to the lack of inspiration on the menu that I ended up with the same dish as my first visit. Except the notable difference is the prices -- they have quite literally doubled since opening. What was £3.50 last December is now £7.00. This is now fairly standard practice -- get in the journalists when prices are low, their reviews are published proclaiming good value and then the prices are inflated. Most reviews aren't updated, so the 'good value' proclamation remains. Hence a large beer at Cha Cha Moon now costs £6.00. There is only one type on offer.

Noodle dishes were bland, the Chinese chives side dish lacked the blossoming head so distinctive of this variety and the chilli oil condiment lacked depth of flavour or sizzling punch. Staff are so used to speeding diners on and turning around tables that they neglected to notice the place was only half-full, so we were still hurried on.

Central London is full of authentic Chinese restaurants offering a bowl of flavourful noodles, atmosphere and service for a reasonable price. It's just that Cha Cha Moon doesn't appear to be one of them. It wasn't all bad news though -- The Clachan, on the other hand, was a great find -- just tucked behind Liberty's, the upstairs bar has Timothy Taylor Landlord and London Pride on draught, a great space and good atmosphere.

Cha Cha Moon, 15–21 Ganton Street, London W1F 9BN
Click here to go to the Cha Cha Moon website.

The Clachan, 34 Kingly Street, London W1B 5QH.
Click here to see the location of The Clachan.

Note: The photograph does not show Cha Cha Moon.